Oudaya, Rabat Morocco

1. The Oudaya: This ancient castle is part of the origins of Rabat. Estimated to have been built in the 12th century, this fortress at the mouth of the Bou Regreg River was used to fight off enemies, host royal delegations, plan for the Muslim conquest of Spain. It also became the capitol of the kingdom in the 17th century.

There is a cool cafe serving tea and sweets that overlooks the Atlantic and the mouth of the Bouregreg as well as a small art gallery above the Oudaya that is interesting as well.  If you have seen any pictures of the white and blue walls in Rabat (like the one below), they are found in the neighborhood here. There are also some really exquisite Moroccan doors adorning the lanes as well.

The Oudaya in Rabat

Here is an article on the history of the Oudaya. Here is a video done by the Moroccan News (2M) on the Oudaya and some of the restoration that has happened there. It is in French, but if you don’t understand French, the historical footage alone is enough to give you a taste of the Oudaya.

2. The Chellah

The Chellah Rabat Morocco

The Chellah is the oldest known human settelment along the Bou REgreg River. It overllos the river plane that stretches out beneath.  Histoiras believe this was originally a Ophenician colony dating back to the 3rd centruy BC. There are Roman runins here dating to 40 AD.  You can read more here to get the full scoop on the Chellah.

Now I can’t vouch for what language they are actually speaking here, but you can get a quick look at the chellah in this video:

3. The King’s Palace

Royal Palace in Rabat

The Palace was first built at the end of the 18th century, and later redesigned, rebuilt by the King Hassan II. Many government offices are found within the walls of the palace grounds, so it is not like the historical palace monuments you might see in other countries. You really can only walk on the central pathway there, so it is not an indepth tour by anymeans, but it seems like we (people) always like to see royalty and get a first hand view of the governments of other countries. For those reasons it is well worth a walk through.

You can read more about the King in this article from the Moroccan Embassy.

4. Tour Hassan & The Mosoleum of Mohammed V

Tour Hassan

Tour Hassan and the Mosoleum of Mohammed V stand facing each other. In the picture above, the brown stone tower is the minaret of the incomplete mosque (Tour Hassan). It was started in the 12th century with the ambitions of being the largest minaret in the world, and the adjoining mosque the largest mosque in the world. It was not completed, and today stands at 44m, half of its intended height. Small pillars that were to be the pillars of the large mosque, line the area around the minaret as well.

The Mosoluem of Mohammed V, is the burial place of the current king’s grandfather, father and uncle. It is an architectural masterpiece. Non Muslims are also allowed to enter and to see the Mosoleum.

Make sure to read this article on Galen Frysinger website, to see some great photographs of the monuments.

5. Shopping in the Medina.

Medina Rabat

We have been to medinas throughout Morocco. Many of them have the same basic goods in the touristy parts- shoes, lanterns, rugs, leather, jewellry etc. All of which are fun if you are in the mood to shop (only check the leather closely, because the smell will stick with the bag). But the thing we enjoy the most about the medinas is that each medina has a different atmosphere than the others. The medina in Fez feels very historic and like you have stepped back in time. The medina in Marrakech is this blend of wild (Jmaa Al Fnaa), piety (the mosques and the call to prayer), and tourism with all the riads and foreigners. The medina in Rabat is very different. Now, I am really talking about the touristy part, where they sell all the furniture and whatnot (it is the entrance across the street from the Oudaya). There, the breeze blows in from the Atlantic and the Bouregreg, and has a laid back, relaxed feel that is unique to the Rabat medina. I see a lot of tourists entering the medina through the “main entrance” at the bottom of Boulevard Mohammed V, but this is really not the “tourist entrance” it is more normal, everyday Moroccan life entrance where you would go to find cell phones, kids toys, clothing etc.

6. Exotic Gardens

Exotic Gardens

We wrote a full description of the Exotic Gardens in Rabat that you can read for more info.

7. Dinner at the Riad Oudaya

Dining at the Riad Oudaya

8. Dining and a Stroll at Villa Mandarine

Villa Mandarine

Another hidden gem in Rabat is the Villa Mandarine. It is tucked away on a quiet street in the Suissi/Hay Riad area. The Villa is located on the midst of an orange grove. Walking around the garden through the orange trees can’t help but make you feel relaxed. It has a pool as well and peacocks strutting around if you are lucky enough to catch them.

The restaraunt there, serves very high quality food and is frequented by both guests of the villa and Moroccan locals alike. The breakfast that comes with the stay is in the top three breakfasts I have eaten in Morocco (Dar Nour in Tangier and Chez Paul in Rabat) would be the other two.

Their contact is on their website. If you go, please leave a review of Villa Mandarine.

As you can see by the chart, weather is Rabat is fairly mild compared to other places in Morocco. Although the average temperature in Summer is low 80′s, because of the humidity it feels hotter than that. The name for winter in Morocco is the “Schtahh”, meaning “rain” and winter is the season for rain in Rabat.

Spring is escpecially beautiful in Rabat and all of Morocco, with the plant life quite verdant and the temperatures very comfortable.

Rabat does not have a lot of weather fronts that blow in, thus the temperatures stay fairly consistent day after day. If it is sunny and warm today, it is likely to be that way for the next few days, and quite possibly the rest of the month.

Being situated on the Atlantic the water at the various beaches is fairly chilly, but in the summer (mainly late June, July, and August) they are pleasant to swim in although some of them have quite a strong current.

Oh, almost forgot, the sources for the weather stats are the BBC and Best of Morocco.

If you have any questions about the weather or the best time to come, please drop us  a line.

Top Places for Kids in Rabat

1. Hilton Park: There is a great park next to the old Hilton, everyone knows it as Hilton park. It has a running trail, is shaded well, has several fountains, cafes, and area for kids to ride their bikes and run around and play. It is also a great spot for picnics, soccer, or just running around.

2. MegaMall: MegaMall on Rue Mohammed Saadis, has a great play area for kids. They have a little climbing wall there as well. There is a bowling alley there. They also have a food court. As of February, the play area was under construction, but when it is open it is a real hit with the kids.

3. Playground Near Fridays: There is a small playground near Friday’s restaurant in Agdal. There slides there for kids to climb around on. It is open during daylight hours and always has a lot of little kids running around there.

4. The Exotic Gardens: This is on the road to Kenitra, you can see this post we wrote about it, and it is a great place to go and relax and for kids to run around.

5. The Beach: Rabat has a handful of beaches in it, or in Sale, that are great for kids to play on the sand. In warm months there are constantly people at Plage Rabat (just beyond the Oudaya) during the day. There is also a pier there to walk out on. In the summer, they set up games and play areas (carnival like) for people to play. Another fun beach is also on the road to Kenitra just past the Exotic Gardens called Plage de Nationes. There are some small cliffs near it where you can see people doing some sort of hanggliding during the day. Beware though, the current at Nations Beach is really, really strong and the water is cold. The water at Plage Rabat also has a reputation for getting people sick as well.

6. The Fish Market at Skihrat: On Sundays, there is a fish market at Skihrat, near Rabat on the road to Casablanca. The fisherman come in with their little boats from the water and sell their fresh fish straight off the boat. They have all kinds of interesting looking fish there, sure to interest the kids.

7. Tour Hassan: Tour Hassan, demarked by the large pillar you see standing in the downtown skyline, is a great place for your kids to run around. They have guards on horses and older men dressed in traditional Berber attire selling water from a leather canteen. There is a garden on two sides of the monument.

8. McDonalds: There are a handful of MacDonalds in Rabat. One downtown, one in Agdal, one at the Marjane in Hay Riad. There are also a few of Pizza Huts (by Marjane downtown, and by the Label Vie Gallery in Suissi), and a few Dominos (Agdal and Label Vie Gallery).

9. Food Courts: There are food courts with all kinds of food at the Mega Mall and at Label Vie Gallery- pizza, fried chicken, Mexican food, Chinese- pretty much anything you can think of. No, its not culturally Moroccan, but sometimes anything will do to get your kids to eat.

F Haagen Daas: This is great ice cream. I would love to get it regularly. The only issue is the price. I think 70 dirhams for a pint (about $8 USD) is absurd. Again I am from BlueBell country where the slogan is “eat all we can and sell the rest” and a half gallon costs about $7. The price automatically flunks the ice cream test.

D- Ice Foam: This is a is a generic term to describe the distant long lost cousin of ice cream that has been posing in many of the grocery stores and cafes of Rabat.The flavor is a bit funny and the texture is some cross between normal ice cream and the bubbly substance that floats near the top of a root beer float. You eat it, sure, but it makes you wonder how artificial is this actually.

C+ Magnum Bars: You can get these (in the summer) from most of your hanuts. Beware though, the Magnum sign at the door of the stores, while making you think Magnums are inside, is not always the case. “Mabqash” (There are no more) the owner of the hanut will tell you when you ask as he looks at you like this answer was obvious. If you are lucky enough to find the actual Magnum, you are in for a treat. The ice cream quality is high and the flavor is good. But being frozen to a stick just doesn’t hit the spot like normal ice cream.

B- Food Court Ice Cream: Now we are getting closer to the real deal. You can find this at Aswaak Salam, Label Vie Gallery and Mega Mall. They have a pretty wide assortment of flavors ranging from sugar-free frozen yogurt type stuff to the real deal full fat chocolate. The taste and texture are good. I prefer the one at Label Vie Gallery as the guys behind the counter are nice and always ask about my family, even though we don’t go there that much (at least that is what I tell myself). The one thing that is strange, is that asking to taste a few flavors seems odd to these guys. Sure, one taste and your OK, but recently when my wife asked to taste a second flavor they told her (at Mega Mall) that it was “memenuaa” (forbidden, the same word as if you drive the wrong way down a one way street).

A Finally, the pinnacle of the Rabat ice cream experience: Venezia Ice. They just opened a third location in Rabat down by the Bouregreg walkway in between the Oudaya and Tour Hassan. Venezia Ice takes the prize for a number of reasons. First is atmosphere. All three of the stores are enjoyable to eat at because of the style of the store, the cleanliness, and especially with the new one, the view. Second is the quality of ice cream. The flavor, texture and variety are really good. You feel like you are actually eating ice cream (so maybe not Blue Bell, but…). Third, the portion size. Where I am from, you typically just order a scoop on a cone, or if you buy it from the store, you put it in a bowl. Not at Venezia Ice. Although you have those normal options, the first time I went I was amazed as every one around us had huge goblets of ice cream topped with whipped cream and other goodies. It is par for the course at Venezia ice to get a dish with three scoops of ice cream, whip cream, a crumbly chocolate/graham cracker thing and feel normal about it, because every one else there has the same thing.

So in conclusion, if you are on the hunt for ice cream while in Rabat, look for the Venezia Ice sign. They have one on Mohammed VI in Suisse, Avenue de France in Agdal and the third on the road to the Oudaya. The pics below are of a foggy day at the third one, but when summer comes, I am sure it is going to be the place to hang out at night.

Rabat has its fare share of gardens and parks- the Hilton park is great for running/walking or a picnic. There is a park in Agdal near Place Ibn Yassin that is nice in the summer. The redone area by the Bouregreg with the Venezia Ice is great as well, although it is hardly a park. My favorite find lately though are the exotice gardens on the road to Kenitra. It probably takes about twenty minutes to get out there from Rabat (and brave yourself for driving in Sale!), but for a Sunday afternoon adventure with the family, it is really great. Go through Sale, following the Kenitra signs and once you get through Sale and onto what looks like a little highway, you will soon see the signs for the exotic gardens on your left.

From the outside it doesn’t look like much, but just like everything else in Morocco, don’t judge a book by its cover. Upon entering in, it litterally feels like you have moved away from the business and government center of Morocco and into its secret garden. The air temperature was about 10 degrees cooler and then shade from the trees made the atmosphere very pleasant. Outside of the main pathway, the paths in the garden are too small to take a stroller on, so if you have a small child you will need your Baby Bjorn or your Ergo.

The first time we went was in August and the flowers were blooming, in contrast to the world around us. I have no idea how much the gardens is paying in their water bill, but it must be a ton because everything was in bloom. Moroccans are there with their families enjoying the sights and you can wonder through the gardens (it probably takes about an hour to see everything) and to just relax. No smog, no car horns, no buses, just relaxing. We went back in February, and the flowers were not in bloom so it wasn’t as nice (the pic above is from February), but the calm was still the same.

It cost about 10 dirhams a person to get in and they close around sundown. Hope you enjoy.

I stumbled on a big secret gem in Rabat the other night. I have been in Rabat a couple of years and have eaten at a lot of restaurants. Traditional Moroccan, Chinese, pseudo-Mexican, Italian, seafood- you name it, if it is in Rabat, I have probably tried it. Until now my three favorite restaurants in Rabat had been Matsuri’s sushi (but it is so expensive I have only eaten there once), TGI Fridays (reminds me of home), and the Syrian joint by the Label Vie in Centreville. My friend recommended that I try the restaurant at Riad Oudaya in the medina sometime when I had family in town. Its nicer than just a, “I have no food in the fridge, lets just go out place,” but it is worth the money (and I don’t like to spend money).

I have now been twice, with two different family members who have come into town to see Morocco. To get there you park behind the medina on the road that runs by the Oudaya. You proceed by foot into the medina entrance just in front of the marbuuta. The Riad Oudaya website has a map on how to get there. The first night we went it was foggy as we walked the medina street. This part of the Rabat medina is not like Fes or Marrakech with their winding lanes. It was a straightshot and cars were even driving on it. When we found the riad door, we rang the doorbell and waited expectantly. The door swung open and the hostess greeted us warmly. I had been telling my mom and sister about what riads were like and they had looked at our site many times, but it was seeing with their eyes that left them amazed.

The courtyard in Riad Oudaya is really great. It is done with a lot of tradiitonal Moroccan elements that were interwoven with skill. All the rooms were full so we really couldn’t look around that much. The riad is owned by a Frenchman, but both times I have been a Moroccan lady has been running it, and they don’t speak English. They sat us in one of the salons that had a fireplace and brought a heater in as well. First course were four Moroccan salads with accompanying bread. We had an eggplant salad, cauliflower salad, a tomato/bell pepper salad and one other kind which I have subsequently forgotten. They were done well, not too heavy with oil so you could still get the flavors. Course two was chicken pastilla. The round personal size pastry came out and it was elementally the Moroccan dish, but redone with French refinement. Course three was mshwey- barbecued lamb, with green beans and carmelized figs. Mshwey is not my favorite dish (lamb is a little gamey for my tastes) but this one was done really finely, with a lot of attention paid to the details of the presentation, The carmelized figs made the dish. Fourth course was desert number 1. That’s right, desert number 1. It was a fruit cobbleresque type dish. Course five was desert number 2. It was a baked orange concotion. I love fruit and these deserts were the highlights of the meal for me.

After stuffing ourselves like kings, we sat back and sipped on some mint tea before we made our exit. The meal costs about 300 dhs a person and they give you options on the meat courses you would like. When we came back for trip number two the entrees and desserts were different, but equally impressive. Sitting there in the salon at night with the open air courtyard laid out in front of you, moonlight falling in, it is really a great experience. It was ideal for us too, to be able to have a really unique cultural experience without actually staying in the riad.

Riad Oudaya – www.riadrabat.com 212 (0)537 70 23 92 Email : Riadoudaya AT wanadoo.fr

If you go, let us hear your thoughts about the riad.